On November Hikes
And Enjoying the Silence of Croatian Forests
This November, we clocked in 40 kilometers of hiking, tallying 12.5 hours of woodland wandering.
As someone born and raised in Croatia, I must admit I’ve been guilty of neglecting my own backyard. I’ve traveled abroad plenty, but when it comes to exploring Croatia’s natural treasures, I’ve barely scratched the surface. It’s a common thing here—those of us in the north are known for heading south during summer, but for much of the year, our local wonders go ignored.
This year, though, I decided it was time for a change. Inspired by a recent trip to the U.S., where I met some wonderfully spry retirees planning hikes through the Amazon and cycling adventures, I felt a nudge to lace up my own hiking boots and start exploring. Hiking is wonderfully accessible—it’s cheap (you only need a good pair of shoes), it doesn’t require any special skills or knowledge, it can be done in solitude and if you like the outdoors, it’s a perfect way to enjoy a country’s diverse landscapes.
Trails Close to Home: Zumberak
Two of our November hikes were in Nature Park Samoborsko Gorje, just an hour’s drive from home. This area is stunningly unique, combining the rugged beauty of the Dinaric Alps with the rolling plains of the Pannonian Basin. Old villages, picturesque hamlets, and sprawling meadows make it feel like a time capsule.
Our first hike was a 14-kilometer trail winding past the ruins of the Old Town of Zumberak, a castle dating from the 13th century.
I’m not a fast hiker, nor do I aspire to be. My pace is intentional—an opportunity to soak in the surroundings. Bare trees, though stripped of their leaves, still hold a kind of grandeur, allowing me to enjoy the colorful carpet on the ground. The sound of running water tempts me to dip a toe (while reminding me why I won’t), as my dogs dart and play with infectious joy.
The best part though? Silence. City life is a jumble of noise, and stepping into the woods feels like a soothing antidote, washing over me with a sense of pure pleasure.
The second trail of the month took us along the Slovenian border, where we wandered through open meadows with picturesque views and hidden paths covered with moss. Apparently, the top of Jecmisce blooms into a vibrant floral carpet in spring, so a return trip is on my to-do list.
A Weekend in Snow-covered trails of Papuk
To close out the month, we headed to the east part of the country: Papuk, Croatia’s first and only UNESCO Geopark.
Picture this: Gigantic sea waves hit Papuk, breaking and bouncing off. From the waves splashing with foam released by the force of water pounding the Papuk soil, gigantic sharks, whales and gracious dolphins jump out every now and then. In the safe shelter of land, hunters erect their camps and wait for their prey: mammoths and buffalos. That is what Papuk must have looked like, back in the days when it was still an island in the Pannonian Sea, over ten million years ago.
Today, it’s the first and the only geopark in Croatia. It contains rock formations that are remarkably interesting from a geological standpoint, some over 400 million years old.
Nestled in Papuk is the enchanting Jankovac Forest Park. This lush valley, complete with creeks, lakes, and the towering 35-meter Skakavac cascade, feels like something straight out of a storybook. The park forest is named after Josip Jankovic, a member of the noble Slavonian family who was often described as eccentric and a loner—likely because he traded a luxurious life in Vienna for the peace and quiet of Papuk’s natural beauty. I call that smart. :)
Hiking in Papuk this November meant snow—more than we expected. Ankle-deep, it made for slower progress and added to the workout, but it also transformed the landscape into something magical. The crunch of snow beneath our boots, the sharp, clean air, and the white surroundings kissed by the bright Sun—it was an enchanting experience. There’s also the unique satisfaction in returning from a cold hike to the warmth of cozy home, drying your shoes by a roaring fire—a poignant reminder of life's simple joys.
An Ending, or Just the Beginning?
November’s hikes were a reminder to explore more, to appreciate what’s near, and to slow down enough to enjoy the beauty all around. Croatia is full of hidden gems, and I’m only just beginning to uncover them.
Next time you’re planning a getaway, consider the forests, mountains, or trails in your own backyard. Who knows what wonders you might find—and what peaceful silences you’ll get to enjoy.
Happy hiking!